So you want to know how to breed betta fish?
Well, it’s important to do this right while breeding betta fish, else you end up with one of the betta dead. So in this article, I am going to guide you with how to breed betta fish. While breeding betta fish, the male betta fish will make a floating betta bubble nest, repeatedly, of huge size. When accomplished, the male will lure the female to swim beneath the betta bubble nest. Embraced by the male, the female will release her eggs, which are pollinated by the male. As per the eggs drops to the bottom of the aquarium, the male scoops them up and put them inside the bubble nest. A few days later, small betta fish fry will be witnessed swimming near the surface of the water. To effectively breed betta fish, care as well as attention must be focused on this egg-laying behavior. Understanding the egg laying process and following a few simple steps will ensure a positive effort on your first attempt.
Breeding betta fish is extremely time-consuming and very expensive. While breeding beta fish, a large number of eggs can come from a solo spawn, significance that you could end up caring for more than 400 betta fish if most lived. While breeding betta fish, you need to know earlier what you want to get out of the knowledge. Breeding for show or supply is a big undertaking that will require a huge investment of time, space, and money. Due to the great startup as well as supply costs, it is very tough to make an earnings breeding betta fish, so this should not be your aim for some time. When trying to breed any animal, it is significant to know as greatly as you can, about the species. You can earn how to breed betta fish at home effortlessly if you follow our guide.
Tips for breeding betta fish
Breeding betta fish, like any other fish, need a supply of calories to sustain their metabolism. Breeding betta fish needs proper feeding, that helps them to stay healthy and is helpful in maintaining your aquarium. It is important to know the types of foods your betta fish need and how much food they consume, which differs from species to species. In most cases, betta fish only need to be fed once a day and you only need to feed a small amount.
Your betta fish should be able to get enough nutrients from the food they can consume in less than two minutes, as long as the food provides for their nutritional needs. Food that halts in your tank longer than that can get caught in your gravel and will begin to decay, donating to poor water quality. This poor water quality will increase disease weakness and filter maintenance. It could also increase the need for water changes more frequently, which can stress the filtration system and the fish, again increasing sickness susceptibility.
Maintaining a healthy diet
When breeding, the diet of the Betta fish is remarkably important. In nature the Betta fish is a flesh-eating surface feeder, meaning that they mostly feed on insect worms found on the surface of the water. In confinement, the Betta is still a surface feeder but will usually eat bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia or mosquito larva which can either be live or frozen. Most people choose to nourish with pellets designed specifically for maintaining a healthy Betta fish. You should feed your betta fish a good diet before breeding betta fish.
Keep fish free from illness
It is important that both the male and female fish be healthy and shows no signs of illness, parasite, disease or fungus. Not merely one can these things be passed from one fish to another but they will also pollute the tank and affect the fledglings. While feeding a betta fish food, it is significant to lookout for any signs of disease that could be transferred to the fish through the food supply which can lead to unhealthy situations for breeding.
Have Betta Breeding Tank and Separate Nursery
In instruction to ensure that your Betta fish is happy it is critical to keep a clean and soundly sized tank for them to breed in. Male Betta fish usually need a tank of their own as they can be very defensive and aggressive with other fish. Female Betta fish can be sited in larger community aquariums with smaller groups of around three females. After breeding betta fish, you should also have a Betta tank that for the young fries as a nursery where young will be harmless from the adults. It is significant that you have a tank for the male as well as female Betta fish after breeding takes place so you can distinguish them as soon as possible.
Steps to Breed Betta Fish
Following are the steps you need to follow for successfully breeding betta fish.
Step 1: Betta Breeding Equipment List
While breeding betta fish, Male and female betta fish will need to be in a separate tank. It will be used to retain the betta fry during the first couple of weeks after crosshatching.
Fry raising aquarium
After breeding betta fish, a fry raising aquarium will house the fry when they are 3-4 weeks old. Bigger the better, the bigger tank will also make it easier to conserve good water quality.
Aquarium kit to house parent betta
To keep the adult breeding pair separate from one another fish.
An Air pump
The air pump will be used in your sponge filter which helps cleaning the tank.
It delivers air from your air pump to your aquarium so that betta fish can breathe properly.
This is vital to maintaining ideal water quality, as it provides both mechanical as well as biological purification. Valuable aerobic bacteria will settle the sponge and breakdown down harmful toxins created by fish waste. It also includes some air stone and wide stem.
To regulator the air pumps air flow rate, it should not be excessively strong otherwise it’ll distract the male’s betta bubble nest and will make it difficult for the betta fry to swim.
Betta fish need temperatures in the middle of 80 and 85 degrees, just similar to any other tropical fish. The exclusion to wanting a heater comes when you can be definite the room temperature where you betta fry is kept will always be around 80 degrees.
Betta breeder significantly suggests to put almond leaves in the aquarium, not only does it naturally buffer the pH – but it also releases tannins in the water which are believed to stop the fungal infection from compelling over the eggs as well as the adult breeding pair.
Java Moss or any moss
Java Moss helps to maintain aid in the water quality – as it will ingest some of the toxins produced by fish waste. Assured it obtains 7+ hours of light each day to keep this plant alive. It will also offer hiding places for the betta fry.
Micro worm Culture or Brine Shrimp
Betta fry food is a culture of live micro worms that will serve as food for the fry during their first days. They are the perfect size for the fry’s mouths which will encourage the fry’s natural instincts to eat.
While breeding betta fish, you need aquarium salt which helps to prevent diseases and infections. It will also help in maintaining pH level in aquarium water.
The glass jar will be useful to separate certain fish from the aquarium.
Step 2: Choosing a breeding pair
While breeding betta fish, if you choose male betta fish that lacks energy and vigor, your female Betta fish will consider that he is infected with parasites and other disease having pathogens and female betta fish will also think that he doesn’t have a decent immune system. A lowly immune system can be genetic, so it’s important for a female betta to be able to decide your male betta resistance so her offspring have the best chance of existence.
Old bettas have no sex drive and meanwhile, they have not yet come up with a Viagra for bettas. Most betta lives for around 3 years. Most of them discontinue spawning when they are near 15 months and most pet store bettas are already 1 year old. People want “BIG bettas” with BIG fins, not understanding that those betta lives are already pretty much behind.
Disease and infection free
Betta fry fish is kept in poor conditions at the pet store and shipped from the Far East in even worst conditions, most of them carry diseases and are either already sick or are unclean then soon will become sick. You take them home, but they die soon because of the sickness. Only bettas that are in tip-top condition make suitable breeders. So, that means, the pet store bettas are not good for our breeding, immediately after purchasing them.
Color, fin shape
Almost 98% of pet store bettas are veil tails and veils tails are a thing of the past. Meaning no reputable breeder breeds veil tails and that the current betta fin standards have long bypassed the veil tail mutation. We are eventually getting bigger and better things, such as half-moon tails, delta tails, Double Tails and crown tails. Veil tail is not even allowed to display on the circuit and has no retail value. It will be difficult to sell the betta fry.
It is entirely usual for the males to beat up the females a bit before they actually breed. Make sure the male can appreciate the female and he has constructed a betta bubble nest. The female needs to be showing upright stripes on her sides. These are subservient breeding stripes on females. When these two things have occurred then release the female in the tank with the male.
Make sure you have a plant for the female to hide in if the male gets too rough on her. Watch them as they fight a bit. If the female looks overstressed then remove her. But if she is hanging in there alright let the courting ritual continue. This is when the male gathers the eggs and places them in the betta nest. Carefully remove the female without disturbing the nest. Otherwise, she’ll eat the eggs. Leave the male with the eggs as he will tend to them until the fry are free swimming.
Step 3: Setting up the breeding tank
The recommended minimum tank size for Betta Fish should be at least 3 gallons or larger. 5 gallons tank will be best according to the expert betta breeders. When the tank is small than the tank will face difficulties in maintaining a clean environment free of ammonia and toxins. A small tank consequence in less room for error as toxins can build up much faster than a larger aquarium. A small aquarium also requires more frequent water changes and tank cycling. The betta fish natural environment is tropical and they do best in aquariums that mimic this environment. This can be accomplished by having plants which can be real or fake. You should have your aquarium cycled, heated and filtered just like any other tropical fish.
Tank Size Considerations
Since we are not anxious about cultivating beautiful live plant displays in our breeding tanks. So the size of the tank matters a little at the spawning stage, as there is a place for the parent fish to makes their particular routine. The fry can be transferred to a larger tank if necessary.
We recommend that you purchase a new 9-gallon tank to be used exclusively for your breeding and fry raising activities. The 9-gallon size is the most usually available and inexpensive aquarium size and is usually available on sale from time to time at unreasonably inexpensive prices.
There should be sufficient room for the fish to swim, with suitable plants that float, for them to attach their eggs easily, as well as enough room for about 200 eggs to be placed. Even the larger fish can be easily bred in the trusty standard 9-gallon tank; it is sort of the can-do member of your breeding team.
Use a Tank Divider
While breeding betta fish, tank divider which is available online as well as at most pet retailers can be used to separate male and female betta fish. The fish are feed well on high protein foods for 2 or 3 days before breeding.
The divider should be designed for the tank size you are working on for breeding. You should always go from flush with the bottom of the tank to flush with the hood or top of the tank. It is also recommended that the divider be opaque, or that it is not transparent so the male and female cannot see each other during the conditioning period.
Controlling Your Tank’s Illumination and Temperature
Adequate illumination must be on condition with some species, while darkness is appropriate for many fish. Since many fish like a well-lighted spawning area and others spawn in overhangs and dark overgrowths.
The breeding tank should have a means for monitoring temperature individually, heater and digital thermometer are highly recommended, as it will sometimes be needed to raise or lower the temperature to produce the essential results.
Some of the easiest egg scatters to breed are listed here and linked to our easy to follow blogs on exactly how to breed them.
Avoid Buying Used Tanks
You should not buy a used 10-gallon tank or a used tank of most any size that is not set up. By doing this you see in operation with living healthy fish is a difficult risk to take. It risks the containments that may be present or may have fallen into the tank as it set in the corner of a garage. You are also risking possible leaks that may be present, and this does not make sense when tanks are available new for so little money compared to the price of fish and the rest of the elements that make up an aquarium.
The tank is one of the least expensive elements of your aquarium setup so unless you are building large aquarium you should always build new aquarium tanks rather than buying an old aquarium tank. The products produced by aquatic animals and left as remainder within the silicon sealer will effect and show the problem in a tropical fish aquarium for a long time period. The problem these contaminants may cause in the breeding environment is obviously not worth the risk.
Cleanliness and Nitrogen Levels
By gaining knowledge of how to breed betta fish, we can know nitric mixtures from fish waste products are specifically harmful to fry. It is frequently worth changing about a quarter of the water in a spawning tank each day.
Feeding little amounts of live food rather than flakes that might go uneaten and rot will help betta fish to live more. Many people take out any food that isn’t eaten within a few minutes of being presented. Regular use of ‘poop scoops’ helps keep water clean and helps to keep aquarium beautiful.
By knowing how to breed betta fish and the pH level, temperature and water hardness are always important in fish care but also in spawning tanks. Even small pH level changes can injure or even kill fry within the short time period.
The pH level and water harshness should be determined by seeing the fish that you are going to keep in your aquarium.
If water temperatures soar above 80 degrees for any reason like strong sunlight on the tank, a noon-day shed then eggs will eventually die. If the temperatures are too high then eggs can develop too quickly, resulting in distorted or skinny offspring.
Heaters, Filters, and Pumps
Fry and eggs are more vulnerable to water temperature and oxygen shortages than adults. So, don’t be interested to think small fish need a smaller amount air or less care on the temperature front.
Water movement can help encourage some species to mate but it is important to protect fry from powerful currents. In the worst case scenario, all the fry in a tank might be driven into a corner where they stick together and become difficult to breathe. Sponges filters will stop fry from being sucked into piping and will generally introduce less turbulence. Coarse air stones can harvest enough turbulence to harm eggs and fry so it should be avoided.
Step 4: Adding the pair to the breeding tank
Create a breeding condition
- You must have to set up your breeding aquarium at least 9 days earlier for breeding. Clean and wash the 10-gallon breeding tank with warm water only. Do not practice soap/detergent washing as it may leave behind residues that will kill your fish.
- The Aquarium tank should not have any gravel and other stones. Because when betta eggs are released they can get trapped in the gravel and the male may not see them appropriately. The tank should have a plain bottom without any substrate.
- Home the tank on a spot that will not receive direct sunlight. And it should not be directly under air conditioning/heating vents. Make the table or ground strong enough to hold the 10-gallon tank.
- Clean as well as rinse the sponge filter and airline tubing with kindly warm water. And accumulate the sponge filter in the tank, and then connect it to the air pump with airline tubing and the air regulator to control airflow.
- Put the proper heater in the tank and set the temperature to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Else, the breeding pair may not be encouraged to breed. And it will take much time for the eggs to hatch. It raises the breeding pair’s metabolic rate inducing them to eat the eggs and as well as increase the changes for fungal pollution to occur within the eggs.
- Fill the tank with 7 inches of clean conditioned water. This water level is ideal for the male to pick up any dropped eggs. Then add the organic conditioner and aquarium salt to the water by following the needed steps.
- Add some almond leaves to the tank, not only does it naturally affect the pH level – but it also issues tannins in the water which are believed to prevent a fungal infection from taking over the eggs and the adult breeding pair.
- Assemble and add the breeder nest (cleaned as well as rinsed). Place the net near to the almond leaf where the male will construct its bubble nest, and so that he can see the female clearly.
- Add the java moss.
- Turn on all the electrical equipment.
- Adjust the air regulator to let out 2-3 small bubbles per second. It should not be too sturdy else it’ll disturb the male’s bubble nest and will make it tough for the fry to swim. As the fry develop, this air flow rate can be increased eventually.
Adding and removing your fish from the breeding tank
Subsequently conditioning your breeding pair for 10 days, they are ready to be placed in the breeding tank. You can begin by adding the male first to the breeding tank. Followed by the female, which will be placed in the breeding net. Fill a jar with tank water so you can place the fish you want to transfer into it. Using your new jar, scoop up the animal you want to isolation. Then place the fish in the jar and move it to the new tank. Removing your fish this way can minimize its stress and help maintain its vitality. Pore the fish from the jar and allow the fish to swim free in the quarantine tank. Taking the time to acclimate your fish to the quarantine tank can decrease the risk of shocking the fish, which can harm its health.
Male starts to build a bubble nest and breeding stripes will be visible in the body of the female
- The bubble nest should have full-grown substantially.
- The female should have a dark-colored body; she should be displaying vertical bars showing she is prepared to breed.
- The female must have an enviable body, showing she is full of eggs.
- The female’s egg tube, a small white spot on her abdomen, should be displayed.
- The female, in the occurrence of the male, should swim with her head down showing obedience.
If you don’t see these above-mentioned signs, your pair is not ready to breed yet. Give them another day to see if they show these signs. If within a week nothing happens, then condition them for 3 weeks and start the entire process again. But if everything played out effortlessly, then you may discharge the female into the tank. After they realize there is no longer a barrier between them, they will act aggressively towards each other. Usually, the male will chase the female into hiding but there have been incidences of the female chasing the male. Fin nipping, as well as ripping, is totally standard. But have your eye on them for the next hour – as there have been occurrences of the male killing the female.
Once the chasing period stops, the pair lastly decides to breed; the female will obediently swim towards the male (with her head down).
The male will attempt to wrap his body around the female. And they will try numerous angles until they hit the sweet spot. When they have the perfect spot, they will sink to the bottom while “comprised”. This is when the female releases her eggs while the male fertilizes them.
The male will get the eggs up with his mouth and place them into the bubble nest. They will replication of this process over and over again until the female is out of eggs.
Once the female ends up releasing eggs and seems uninterested in breeding, the male will start acting violently towards female betta. It is now a good idea to cautiously remove the female – being careful not to disturb the nest.
Step 5: Remove female from the tank and let male betta guard the eggs
Male Betta fish are often kept in different tanks from other males and females because they may attack and kill tank mates. If you have betta fish and would like to breed them, it’s significant to provide a protective environment in which they can brood and know how to breed betta fish. Making a tank with good water quality and pH level, satisfactory hiding spots for the female and approve that the mating process proceeds effortlessly.
When the eggs are laid, take the female out of the tank to another clean tank. The male is a very devoted father and may cause her injury if she stays in the same tank. A female may lie motionless for a few moments after laying her eggs. Male bettas may chase the female away from the bubble nest after she’s finished laying the eggs. You can swap the female in her old tank or let her rest in a holding tank for a few days.
Step 6: Removing the male
When the young fish are swimming in the tank the male betta must be removed from the tank. It is a conjoint belief that the male will eat his free-swimming young. Regardless, maximum betta fish breeders choose to take the male from the breeding tank at this point. The new young are now fully reliant on upon their gills. Until they are between 4 to 6 weeks old when they change to breathing oxygen from the surface of the water. Betta fish develop at varying rates which is why the time frame for this growth rate is so widespread. For some varieties, the young are already at sexual maturity by the age of 4 months. As the fish grows, it is significant to begin to separate the male and female from each other and the males from each other as well.
Step 7: Preparing brine shrimp
Brine shrimp is an outstanding food for your betta fish as a measure of a balanced diet. Shrimp like those made by a popular company in France are most often sold as flat cartons or in distinct portioned cubes. For a betta fish, one cube can go a protracted way, often long-lasting as week or more. While feeding in combination with other foods, one package can last a year for one fish if stored correctly. Bettas are prone to swelling and overdoing, so small slice sizes are key to success.
One portion of betta food should be about the size of the fish eyeball. By knowing how to breed betta fish, the amount of betta food can be fed two or three times per day. We should feed our bettas once per day. So I tend to feed just a slightly more, possibly double the size of their eyeballs each day. If your betta appears distended after feeding, decrease your portion sizes.
Step 8: Feeding fries
While the diet may be adequate, a diversity of foods will provide more protein to betta fish. Live brine shrimp make a good adding to their diet and prepared foods for livebearer fry may be purchased from the pet store. As the fish develop, raise the size of the crushed flake and reduce the frequency of feedings. Some young will grow faster than others and the larger ones may begin to quarry on the smaller ones. Spread of the greater fish to a grow-out tank where you can nourish them bigger flakes of food until they are prepared to join the fish in the public aquarium tank.